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jeff.nj
06-10-2008, 08:13 PM
hi,i have a 06 Sg and 2 weeks ago i changed the intake seals which were leaking.it runs fine until this morning.i ran over 200 miles over the weekend in 90+ heat and ran great.yesterday in the same heat i was going to work got stuck in traffic jam and it went into heat man. which i hit the shoulder got out of traffic was fine.today no traffic straight through came to a yield sign and it gave a small puff out the pipes and didn't want to idle? then continued flat road going 25mph while i loosen the fuel cap maybe vapor lock that didn't do anything then i pulled in the clutch and let go of throttle and stalled out.then i had to play with throttle till i got to work even pulling up driveway it wanted to stall.i shut it down and restarted and it idled perfect couldn't get it to want to stall.all this happening and no engine light came on. so have any fixes?

blkfalc4
06-10-2008, 08:19 PM
Did it post any codes? I think it would have if it was running as described. I would check the code history and then clear if any show up, but write down the number before clearing so as to give you an idea of possible direction to go.

wreckerman
06-10-2008, 08:52 PM
sounds like one of your sensors might be acting up

jeff.nj
06-10-2008, 09:28 PM
Did it post any codes? I think it would have if it was running as described. I would check the code history and then clear if any show up, but write down the number before clearing so as to give you an idea of possible direction to go.

the engine light never came on and really don't know how to get codes out of ecm.

jeff.nj
06-10-2008, 09:32 PM
sounds like one of your sensors might be acting up
hi wreckerman
how you doing.i'm baffled this doesn't happen all the time.i think the last time was in april. which sensor should i start with? how do i pull/clear codes on a 2006?
jeff

blkfalc4
06-11-2008, 04:33 AM
LOL jeff
It's on the right side of this forum under technical faqs. Actually it's quite easy.

jeff.nj
06-11-2008, 09:14 PM
So i checked for codes and all the letters p55pe when i click them they all had none with the following: p/ Pn32915-06,5/Pn68922-00d,5p/Pn67261-04,e/Pn67459-04 i haven't got a clue on what this means

wreckerman
06-11-2008, 10:00 PM
shoot a PM to kagan and maybe he can desiffer the codes for you ! from there it should help you to figure out what is going on

blkfalc4
06-11-2008, 10:50 PM
Sounds like your code clear,, if you had any it would resemble: u1311 or p1311 or such code as listed in the tech faq.
The part numbers are just that,, telling you the number, means nothing to you atm.

jeff.nj
06-12-2008, 09:32 PM
did it again last nite!!!!started up fine ran fine 2miles straight through 1st light.wham what the tach slam down to zero

wreckerman
06-13-2008, 03:15 AM
i had my o2 Rk at one time kind of acted like that changed the coil and it was good again the difference is mine had the engine light coming on and off might want to pop the crank sensor and give it a cleaning

jeff.nj
06-13-2008, 09:08 PM
i had my o2 Rk at one time kind of acted like that changed the coil and it was good again the difference is mine had the engine light coming on and off might want to pop the crank sensor and give it a cleaning
that's the one by the oil filter

jeff.nj
06-13-2008, 09:09 PM
yesterday the idle started going 1200rpm !!!!!!!!!!!!! ragecaged

wreckerman
06-13-2008, 09:55 PM
yes that is the one by the oil filter , also believe it or not you could have any of about 30 pin connectors dirty and causing the same problem as i said i had simulear problem and even went back to the dealer with it , ended up that they did not fix it what i finely had to do was take each and every connector a part clean them with spray then re-grease them put them back together and i have never had a problem since what a royalk pain in the ass that was

jeff.nj
06-14-2008, 12:47 AM
yes that is the one by the oil filter , also believe it or not you could have any of about 30 pin connectors dirty and causing the same problem as i said i had simulear problem and even went back to the dealer with it , ended up that they did not fix it what i finely had to do was take each and every connector a part clean them with spray then re-grease them put them back together and i have never had a problem since what a royalk pain in the ass that was
yikes,so which one you think caused the problem?/ groucho

blkfalc4
06-14-2008, 12:48 AM
Are you dropping a cylinder when the rpm drops? If it is could be the temperature sensor. The ECM kills a cyl to keep the engine cool on a hi temp feedback. Seen alot of these sensors having probs.

jeff.nj
06-14-2008, 01:42 AM
Are you dropping a cylinder when the rpm drops? If it is could be the temperature sensor. The ECM kills a cyl to keep the engine cool on a hi temp feedback. Seen alot of these sensors having probs.

NOPE shut;s off like i switched the key off.the other nite i only ran 2 miles.couldn't got that hot. i know about the heat man,sys.it didn't do that

wreckerman
06-14-2008, 02:17 AM
never did figure out witch one was doing it , because they all looked good to me , that is why i just kept plugging away one at a time till i had them all done wish i had a better answer for you some of the problems wore would die for no reason speedo would just quit working and needle would stay wear ever it wanted at a stop sign it might read 65 mph and when it did act up it usealy would not ideal for shit would drop down to 600 or 700 rpm like i said close to the same but not same