Going to try painting my bike..1 question

[IamVince]

Any tips for painting around the gas tank filler neck?When I got this tank (ebay)it looked pretty good.But shortly gas started getting under the paint at the fill hole.I really don't want that to happen again.
http://harleychatgroup.com/index.php...wtopic&t=19590
really like this thead..all the experts telling the dude to forget it...too involved..etc.Then the guy does a great job.Hope mine comes out as good.Its rattle can black now so about any thing will be a inprovement.

[JD]

If you use a good basecoat/clearcoat system like the factory or modern cars, it will hold up to the gasoline. I have seen some aftermarket filler caps have a "paint protector" - a semi-flat ring that is placed around the bung to prevent/cover gasoline damage.

[IamVince]

Thanks JD(after all these years he's still helping me out)Here is the guide I'm using http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm and http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_prep.htm I already have a compressor, 7" polisher,sanders etc still haven't picked out a paint gun yet.

[JD]

LOL. Thanks. I'd say go for it. I did some auto body years ago, and it translates pretty well to painting tins. Cardinal rule is prepping. We'd always say an average painter can look like a pro if everything is prepped right LOL. These basecoat/clearcoat paint systems are pretty good, if that's the direction you are going to go. Only thing I can say is take your time, prep everything well, buy good materials, don't do something too complicated, and do your best. Oh, and get a good filter on the gun's air supply for particulate, oil, and moisture. What a great way to put your signature on your bike.

[johnma]

I do a lot of custom painting. To avoid this happening scuff up with emery paper the entrance to the tank at the filler cap lip ( carefull it does n't show when the cap is back in place ) and then paint on a band of epoxy glue like "araldite" that covers the paint seam and the lifting areas and goes down and also covers about half of an inch onto the bare scuffed metal ..let it cure about 3 days before you put the tank cap back ..and don't paint it on too thick or you will crack it when you screw the cap back on ..

To avoid this to begin with you needed to have better mechanical grip ( better scratch and scuff ) on the filler cap lip area when you set up the job for your background coat and your primers etc ..even then a thin painted clear epoxy paint or glue applied when the final PU clear coat has hardened and finished degassing will prevent this ..

Most "lifting" or "letting go" is down to bad mechanical adhesion ..the exceptions are usually the more exotic plastics like TLO or ABS etc ..those need both physical and chemical adhesion promotion.

Hope this helps you out.

[IamVince]

wow it sure did help and welcome to HCG.

[D.N.F.]

don't forget to paint with the grain...

[sham]

metal etcng may also help out.try a product called prepsol.and just follow the instructions on the bottle

[arthureld]

I painted a tank with spray cans once and the paint wrinkled near the filler the first time gas got on it.
I agree with all the prep advice. And you might use polyeurithane paint or clear coat and let it dry a long time bifore getting gas on it.

Good luck. I clearly remember that Frankinglide thread.

[rodbender]

Also make sure you have good gas cap seals as I've seen this be a culprit a time or too also.