Starter Issues

[Baggersmitty]

96"S&S pinion gear extends out to ring gear but will not crank the motor when start button it hit , fully charged batt. connections cleaned plunger copper etc....any and all help appreciated...getting the multi meter out now...I was told 10 volts is as low of a drop when trying to start...does this sound right ?


thanks in advance

[Heretic]

aftermarket engine in a bagger can be a problem (I am assuming bagger because of your username)....frame does not allow for a much larger starter, and evos have the tiny starter gears, that get rough and chewed up with a high compression engine

I have been down this road, with a 127 incher in a bagger frame.....If you give me a little more info on your build, I may be able to steer you in the right direction

[Baggersmitty]

I apologize...not a bagger just picked the name..97 Ultra softail frame..extra wide with hard bags...hence bagger...has been no issue until this past sunday...seems to be losing juice to the drive...I have put power directly to the drive and it rolls over like new , diving back into the wiring and connections...back stepping so to speak.

Thanks

[Relic]

Try checking your battery ground cable, if needed, ground the cable to the motor, I would suggest the upper starter bolt to the primary. Also check your ground for the starter relay. Last, but not least, Your battery may be a POS.

Hope this helps

[Wide]

Yes the ground cable is first think I check. Remove and clean then reinstall with a star washer. If you have any insulation burnt back in the least way replace it. I use double cables on anything big to keep the currect flowing with no resistance

[Heretic]

Both Spyke and tech starters recommend that you ground them negative battery cable directly to one mounting bolt of the starter, then run a second cable from there to the frame. I swear by that practice on all bikes.

What kind of starter are you using? I keep thinking back to a starter brush issue....I have had them work for a bench test, but not under load

Just FYI...the stock harley starter will work for a while with the S&S engine....just so you understand that "For a while" were the operative words in that sentence.

[gliderider94]

aftermarket engine in a bagger can be a problem (I am assuming bagger because of your username)....frame does not allow for a much larger starter, and evos have the tiny starter gears, that get rough and chewed up with a high compression engine

Been there, done that, learned everything there is to know about high comp baggers tearin up starters. This is somehting I suffered with several times and it all started when I went to power modifications in my '94 dresser.

I finally found a permanant fix. I had my wrench change the pinion gear on the starter and the ring gear on the clutch basket to a ratio which allowed the starter to turn the motor over much easier and with a lot more torque when you hit the go button.

Can't remember which gears. I'll call my old wrench and ask him. This is the last best way to turn over high performance or high compression motors. Also, I shaved the deck .030 and went to a raised dome piston. I was running a 110ci Rev-Tech motor with a Merch bottom end and was making 10.2:1 compression as a result. Fortunately the Rev-Tech heads come cast and drilled for a second plug per cylinder which allowed for a set of "Jims" push button compression relief valves to be inserted in each of the secondary plug holes. This feature has made Rev-Tech heads very popular among guys who beef up any kind of Evo style Harley motor. Changing heads may sound a little drastic, but if changing the starter pinion-to-ring gear ratio dosen't solve your problems changing to heads designed for a second plug and using a relief valve in that hole deffinately will. You CAN drill a stock Evo head to accept a compression relief valve but it fucks up a lot of very essencial aspects of the combustion chamber design and as a result your combustion efficiency will suffer drasticly. It will run fine, but you'll carbon up your valves and foul plugs like crazy. Also, speaking as someone with extensive knowledge of combustion chamber desing and testing I can tell you that the Rev-Tech heads are FAR superior to stock Harley heads in terms of fuel swirll, burn efficiency and compression dispersion. The next best would be the grade 1 compression upgrade head for Evo's from S&S. Add increased heat to the to agressive driving style you'll shurley develope and you'll soon find new problems. Primary of which is the raw unburned oil spwewing from your pipes as a result of fried valve guides (usually the exhaust valves first). Do yourself a favor that will be cheap at the time of the mods but potentailly VERY costly if left unattended. Install a set if the new neoprene impregnated nylon valve guide inserts. They're cheap and made specifically to handle the higher temps associated with high compression heads. The stock guide inserts will soon become brittle and crack from the repeated thermodynamic stresses they will be subject to. You'll know when it happens, the guy riding behind you will beat the shit out of you and make you detail his bike which will be cover in oil.

Changing starter & ring gear ratios and changing heads may sound cost prohibitive (and your right - it aint cheap) but even with labor cost it was a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of all the starters I chewed up and all the times thecock sucker stranded me in the middle of nowhere. It's a proven fact that the amount of cost involved and the inability to fix a problem on the road lie in direct proportion to the distance between you and getting home. My bike NEVER broke down in my driveway.

[Baggersmitty]

Problem solved...Pos. starter cabel cracked at solenoid post...not letting the juice flow.....Once again she is alive and screamin like a gut shot comanche..heading to the hill climb and swap meet at anamosa


Thanks for all the help and advice

[Relic]

Glad you got the problem resolved. Ride safe, Bro!