Ok.... I am getting ready to buy the chrome kit for my 2004 softail standard $899.... fiirst off I was wondering how involved it would be for me to put this kit on myself? The timeing cover and tranny cover and primary cover no prob....i think....but the rocker covers like the housing and the lifter covers sound more involved...I have a service manuel but I how involved is this really? I'm a superintendent and fix all kinds of things for a living so I'm good with my hands but I don't want to fuck up my Harley either!!! The dealer wants $500 to install the whole kit $72 hour thats gonna KILL me!!!!! Also is there somewhere I can get the chrome kit cheaper? Thanks
No, its not really too hard, just review the service manual, watch torques, make sure you have all the gaskets, and take time to protect your paint, etc from scratches or whatever. You might come across a question here and there, just post it and we'll keep you moving along.
I agree with Jdellefs it's not that bad of a job, we also have in the story achives an article on changing gaskets, you might want to look at it. It's basically the same job you're doing.
Bucket list are for Sissie, men do it while they can enjoy it
ck your torque settings .. and also there are some discrepancies in the newer shop manuals .. One is the cam cover in the assembly narrative it states that the torque should be between 125-155 in-lbs (14.1 - 17.5 Nm)
BUT in the diagram figure 3-88 it states " Alternately tighten cover screws to 90-120 in-lbs (10.2-13.6 Nm) in the sequence shown.. As per section 3-19 bottom end overhaul : assembly page 3-59
this is what is said to happen when u torque them to the higher settings
So check and double check before you torque anything
ok guys I'm gonna trust in you....and my hands! I'm gonna try this stuff this weekend!
I have installed about 20 of these kits. Mostly on softtails.
The hardest part is the trans top cover. One of the fasteners is almost impossible to get to without removing the oil tank. I use a 14 inch 1/4" drive extension with a wobble and a ball 3/16th short hex tip for the fastener. Remove the battery, and you'll have access to the screw in question. To get the cover out you'll have to remove the 2 small oil lines, one starter bolt, the lower strut bolt, and kinda wiggle the cover out. (Or remove the oil tank taking care not to scratch it on the strut. ) Getting the new one in is reverse procedure. Pay attention to where the breather tube is located, and I use long needle nose pliers for the neutral switch wiring.
You will have to remove the pushrods to get the lifter block covers off. You'll find the fasteners well gooped with loctite. They come out SLOW, and a ball allen will almost always cause them to strip. Don't get into a hurry with them.
The trans side cover includes moving the clutch cable over, and the actuating parts inside. You'll need a large pair of ring pliers. Depending on your exhaust, the pipes may have to be removed. Loosen the clutch cable before removing the cover. (Like 1/4 of a turn), so it's easier to get it off later. After installation, it's a good idea to adjust the clutch in the primary, and the cable itself. Losing a ball in the transmission is not pretty...take care here too.
ALL the necessary gaskets are included in the kit, but you will need Primary oil, Trans oil, and maybe some motor oil depending on how you decide to get to the trans cover. I doubt you'll have any problems with any of the other parts.
Good Luck and ask as many questions as you need!
Dorothy: "But how can you talk if you haven't got a brain"
Scarecrow: "I don't know, but it seems to me there are an awful lot of people with no brain, doing an awful lot of talking"
Wizard of Oz, 1939